Thus far each day has been quite different from the previous one. Given the delightfully scenic French countryside, the miles of cycling have accumulated more easily than we had anticipated. During these last few days we have ridden past stunning vistas, savoring the local cuisine and world-renowned wine of the region. We have also gotten to know our fellow riders more and are enjoying the company. It’s hard to believe that tomorrow will be our last day in France.
Châlons-en-Champagne to Les Monthairons
DAY #04 of 35France210 miles total
Leaving Chalons, our ride today was rural in nature. With such quiet roads, we often pedaled side-by-side past sprawling farm fields showcasing the fertile soils in this area. Our destination today is just south of Verdun, which holds an inauspicious place in history as the site of World War I’s bloodiest battle. In the context of our Napoleon ride and the huge numbers who lost their lives in that campaign, this somehow adds to the poignancy.
Châlons-en-Champagne Keith & Ruth Sherrick from Florida – “Best in Class” riders. Really beautiful to watch. About to start Day 4 from Châlons-en-Champagne. It looks to be a beautiful day for riding … a relatively short day at 60 miles. A long stretch of smooth road with the sun at our backs. Perfect. Striations of varying hues of gold, bronze and green. Happy to be riding today! Ditto! Verdant forests were intermingled with the fields of crops. Trying to catch Mark, who’s trying to catch Rob from Canada! We know our riverside lunch picnic is close as the bluff along the river comes into view, complete with typical French village above. Ben Weigl, the Napoleon tour leader, has chosen unique and picturesque lunch settings … different every day. For every day of riding, Ben has spent 2-3 days in the previous weeks (months!) mapping out routes conducive to safe and pleasant riding, and scouting coffee stops, picnic/cafe options and hotels. Ride and Seek tour guides for Week 1. From left to right – Dylan (company owner), Richie (bike mechanic and people medic), Collette (picnic queen, masseuse, and without whom the tour would come to a grinding halt), Ben (historian and best-selling author) and Ben (Napoleon Epic group leader). What a terrific group of folks! Only missing James who was still out riding … pic coming soon!
After a relatively short day in the saddle (60 miles and 2,800 feet elevation) we arrived at Les Monthairons, a small commune with a population of less than 400 and best known for its castle. Built in 1800, this charming castle was spared from damage during both World Wars (and occupied by German troops during WW II) – especially lucky considering the devastation in nearby Verdun.
Our arrival at Chateau Des Monthairons – our lodging for the night. The crew always arrives ahead of us with the luggage van. Fancy setting for the trailer today!
Nowadays this stunning and authentically preserved castle is the fantastic chateau that is our home for the night. Located next to a branch of the Meuse River, the castle grounds are a 14-hectare park in which you can get lost surrounded by impressive trees. Absolutely incredible!
Local History
The nearby city of Verdun has been the site of many battles throughout history, the most famous being during World War I. One of the costliest battles of any war, Verdun exemplified the ‘war of attrition’ pursued by both sides and which cost so many lives. German General Erich von Falkenhayn’s aim was through a massive artillery and infantry attack to bleed the French forces to isolate the British army.
After the Battle of Verdun, the battlefield was barren and pocked like the moon … just huge holes of mud, some 5-6 meters deep. These trees have been re-planted on barely passable terrain. Much of the battlefield is still off limits to the public because there are still an estimated 4 to 8 million unexploded shells on the battlefield. A very small sample section of the battlefield today. The battlefields covered a huge area … the same size as greater Paris! The pockmarks were made by the 60 million high explosive shells that were fired. The Battle of Verdun was fought from February 21 to December 18, 1916 on the Western Front. The battle was the longest of WW I. With an overall casualty toll in 10 months of over 700,000 (including 144,000 German deaths and 163,000 French deaths,) Verdun would come to signify, more than any other battle, the grinding, bloody nature of trench warfare on the Western Front during World War I. Over 15,000 French soldiers are buried in the Verdun cemetery – often multiple in a grave, as they were often buried as there were found on the battlefield. The living roses at the base of each grave marker are well-kept, a beautiful tribute. The Douaumont Ossuary (os is French for bones) contains the remains of over 130,000 unknown soldiers from the battlefields of Verdun. (photo by Rick Steves)
Visiting Verdun was a sobering and poignant end to a wonderful day of cycling.
Next Stop: Orscholz, Germany
1 thought on “Day #04: Our First Castle and the Battle of Verdun (WW I)”
Thanks for taking the time to share the photos and descriptions. The cemetery is sad and beautiful. Our family friends, Jim, Bud and Shorty Holmes, who lived in Brownville in their later lives, used to tell me about their experiences fighting here in the war. Thankful to have these photos to better envision the region in better times.
Thanks for taking the time to share the photos and descriptions. The cemetery is sad and beautiful. Our family friends, Jim, Bud and Shorty Holmes, who lived in Brownville in their later lives, used to tell me about their experiences fighting here in the war. Thankful to have these photos to better envision the region in better times.