Day #11 – UNESCO City Bamberg

Würzburg to Schwabthal

  DAY #11 of 35   Germany   604 miles total

The first part of our ride today meandered north from Würzburg before once more heading east. The area we rode through is renowned for its agricultural produce, dominated by wheat fields and vineyards dotting the undulating landscape. We were able to make good time today riding on the perfect bike paths that run alongside the main roads.


Not our most scenic departure, leaving Würzburg this morning was a bit tricky because of rush hour and all of the turns required to get out of town.

A more picturesque view about 10mi out of Würzburg as we started climbing. Leading us out were experienced riders
Noel and Debbie Mullins from Perth Australia.

Mark and Rob Sproul (from Toronto) both got the green jersey memo.

As we gained height, we were rewarded with beautiful vistas of villages surrounded by vineyards.

….and more climbing…

We were hoping that this guy would show us his tail feathers.

Our bicycle paths often routed us through vineyards.

Breathtaking Bamberg

Although not our final destination for the day, our route took us through the town of Bamberg for our lunch stop. Since 1993 Bamberg has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, primarily because of its authentic medieval appearance, and should not be confused with Bamberg district.

Trivia Fact:   Bamberg district completely surrounds — but does not include — the town of Bamberg.

Panorama of Bamberg, Germany.
Panorama of Bamberg via flickr

This historic town is home to an abundance of attractions, including:

  • Bamberg Cathedral dates back to 1237 and includes the tombs of Emperor Henry II and Pope Clement II.
  • Michaelsberg Abbey built in the 12th century on one of Bamberg’s “Seven Hills”
  • Altenburg Castle sits on the tallest of the seven hills of Bamberg, southern Germany, overlooking the town. It dates back to at least 1109 but was most likely built on the site of an earlier castle.
  • Old Town Hall is one of the most iconic buildings in Bamberg. It was built in the middle of the Regnitz River and is accessible by two bridges from opposing sides. (pictured below)

Bamberg old town hall (Altes Rathaus) is the building on the far right
Bamberg old town hall (Altes Rathaus) is the building on the far right.

Our route took us along the Klein-Venedig (“Little Venice”) a colony of fishermen’s houses from the 19th century stretched along one bank of the river Regnitz.

Photo bomb!!!

A large part of Bamberg is a Unesco World Heritage Site because of it authentic medieval appearance.

It is certainly visited by tons of tourists.

Together with Noel, we stopped for lunch in Bamberg. Notice that Noel had black coffee while Shauna and Mark had ice cream sundaes. #guiltyascharged

Then, after a quick lounge break, we were off again….

We left Bamberg on a beautiful wooded cycle path – nice and cool.

One more climb – our steepest yet with sections at 13% – after 72 miles of cycling. See the elevation map at the bottom of the post.. it was a doozy!

…and what goes up, gets to go down!! Wheeee all the way to Schwabthal.

Schwabthal – Bavarian Village

Our destination today is the quintessentially Bavarian village of Schwabthal, which is as authentically German as it sounds. It is among the area’s oldest settlements and a great destination for lovers of history and architecture.

Our quaint hotel in the quaint Bavarian village of Schwabthal..

Traces of Celtic settlements are around Schwab valley. The village was first mentioned in the Bamberger Domnekrolog from 1285 to 1287 as to existing in 1065 in relation to Bamberg Bishop Gunther regarding his goods “in Swaptal” for the cathedral brothers. We found the history of Gunther fascinating, especially in regard to how much is known about Gunther’s life from 1030-1065.

Gary’s 5-minute History Lesson Plus a Little Extra

Author Ben Kane left after Week 1, but much to our delight, we have an amazing historian in our midst. Gary Kates, a history professor from Pomona College in California is a cycling client on this trip with his wife Lynn – an inquisitive and delightful physician! Gary is so knowledgeable and engaging, he makes us want to go take his classes. Gary has started giving 5-minute-history lessons (Lynn times him). He does so expertly, engagingly and effortlessly.

So how did Germany become a unified Germany? Did all the peasants in what is now Germany just wake up one day and say “I want to be German! I AM German!”? Not quite. Before the campaigns of Napoleon, Germany was divided into hundreds of independent states and cities. Although the people were Germanic, they had little sense of national identity.

In the late 1700s, war broke out between France and the rest of Europe. Napoleon’s forces were strong enough to conquer and control the whole of mainland Europe, including the numerous German states. Napoleon reorganized Germany into 39 larger states. He also established the Confederation of the Rhine, a league of 16 German states. This brought further unification to Germany.

Eventually, Napoleon was defeated firstly at Leipzig in 1813 and then at Waterloo in 1815, bringing an end to the Confederation of Rhine.

At the Congress of Vienna in 1815, the allied forces decided to dissolve the Confederation of the Rhine. They wanted to eradicate the memory of French occupation. The German states now formed the German Confederation, also known as the Bund.

Following Napoleon’s subjugation of Europe and the formation of the Confederation of the Rhine, the German states realized that being small and politically divided meant being vulnerable to strong aggressors… they needed each other for common defense! The lessons learned by the defeat of Napoleon and the strong nationalism that was stirred up to finally drive him out, helped strengthen the sense of a common German identity.

Otto von Bismarck took unification to a whole other level in the mid-1800s.

Next Stop:   Plauen

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