S2D9 (Day 23) – Gdańsk to Godkowo

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Today marks the beginning of our fourth week cycling from France to Russia and the second week of Stage #2. After a rest day in Gdansk – undoubtedly one of the most amazing cities we have visited in Poland so far – it is time to hop back on two wheels and continue on towards Godkowo. The next few days we will be cycling across the Polish countryside, slowly but steadily working our way closer to the Baltic states.

The ambience found in Gdańsk, one of Europe’s eminent seaside towns, was a delightful way to spend the week changeover, before embarking upon the journey into the heart of the former Eastern Bloc and the springboard for Napoleon’s assault on the great Russian Empire.

Gdańsk to Godkowo

  DAY #23 of 35   Poland   1,393 miles total

We departed after breakfast out on the ‘Sergio Leonesque’ bike paths – the good, the bad, and the ugly! For the first few miles we rode together through the city traffic, towards what would not be one of the most scenic days of the tour so far, but had some interesting elements nonetheless.


Leaving Gdańsk as a group on a Sunday morning.

The streets were uncluttered as are the streets of many cities on Sunday mornings.

After leaving Gdańsk toward the east, we had to cross the Vistula River at its mouth – just before it empties into the Baltic Sea. This map shows how waterways were constructed in the late 1800s to control dangerous ice floes and flooding.

As we embarked on the ferry, we decided to check Google Maps to see just where we were….

…and this screenshot shows that we are just south (and slightly east) of Stockholm.

Catriona (Scotland and San Fran), Shauna, Lynn (LA) and Jo (UK) on the ferry.

And having a little fun – Shauna, Catriona and Lynn.

After disembarking from the ferry, we rode near the northern coast of Poland. This wind farm was strategically placed to catch the Baltic Sea winds Unfortunately these guys were spinning increasingly fast as the day progressed and we faced downright rude head and side winds.

After leaving the coast we entered into rural farmland with smaller farms than what we had seen before Gdansk.

In general, the landscape was flatter and scrubbier, and to make it challenging, there were the roads from hell for small 26mm tires.

Godkowo, Poland

The village of Godkowo is our stopping point for the day. With a population of 260, it is a far cry from the bustling seaport of Gdańsk where we stayed the last two nights. Although small, Godkowo is a perfect tourist destination for those wishing to spend their holidays in peace and harmony with nature.

  Dating back to the 14th century, the village of Godkowo has alternated between inhabited and desolated numerous times over the centuries as a result of various wars and conflicts, including temporary evacuations during both world wars.

After the outbreak of the first World War, inhabitants of Godkowo were made to evacuate the village as Russian troops were looming. The troops, however, reached only Orneta, where they destroyed a basilica before being defeated. Two decades later during World War II, locals were once again evacuated just a day before the Red Army arrived and destroyed what remained of the village.

Trivia Fact:   Godkowo village was first electrified in 1924.

Our Accommodations

Our residence for the night was a restored 17th century mill, come hotel. Bit of a tough day today with a nasty headwind, some hairy traffic on tight roads, and 75 mi. But we made it safe and sound to this beautiful restored 17th Century mill. Shauna’s guardian angel was definitely with her today as she had a pretty close call with an oncoming vehicle passing two others in her lane. 🙏

Post showers, it was a nice place to relax over a couple of beers and our books.

Our Route

Next Stop:   Reszel

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