Jordan 2: Petra and Wadi Rum

Exploring Petra in Jordan
In a word: humbling

Next Stop: Petra, The Rose City

Nicknamed the Rose City due to its color, Petra is one of the most easily recognizable destinations in the entire world. Located inside of a deep basin and accessible via a 3/4 of a mile-long gorge, the Rose City was not built but rather carved out of sandstone. The majority of the city is surrounded by steep cliff walls. Dozens of temples, tombs, and buildings lie within, all connected via narrow passageways and fissures within this natural basin.

Walking through the narrow passageways of Petra in Jordan is unlike any other destination that we have ever visited
Walking through the narrow passageways of Petra is unlike any other destination that we have ever visited

The unique architecture and jaw-dropping beauty of Petra attracts an increasing number of tourists each year. A record-setting total of 1,135,300 people visited Petra in 2019 — the first year to see over a million visitors. (That equals a staggering 3,100 people per day!)

Petra is not just a UNESCO World Heritage Site but a must-see destination for visitors to Jordan. It’s one of those places that looks cool in the photos you see, but truly awes and amazes you when you’re there in person. Although there is some debate among historians as to when Petra was first properly settled, archeological digs have unearthed pottery from Neolithic settlements dating back as far as 7,000 BC. Nabataean Petra was founded circa 300 BC giving rise to the monuments we see and explore today; urban development progressed with later Roman administration of the city starting at AD 106; Byzantine occupation continued to the seventh century AD. Trade networks that extended throughout much of the ancient Near East and Mediterranean world intersected at Petra, bringing strategic and economic prominence.

Exploring Petra


The climb up to the largest of Petra’s monuments, The Monastery, got our blood pumping, but having completed that, it was our second big hike of the day to The High Place of Sacrifice that took the most energy and effort. It was worth all of the 27,000 steps and a few thousand feet of elevation!

-> Video: 360 degree from Petra’s High Place of Sacrifice.

Wadi Rum

Our next stop was another UNESCO World Heritage Site and truly iconic destination: Wadi Rum, the largest valley in Jordan. We spent a night under the stars at a luxurious domed tent camo. The following morning after breakfast we went on a two hour jeep tour through the sandy desert.

Jeep tour through the desert

Shots of Wadi Rum in the 1962 movie Lawrence of Arabia kick-started Jordan’s tourism industry. Since then more than a dozen movies have filmed scenes here, including two of the Star Wars films and the Ridley Scott / Matt Damon epic The Martian.

Bethany

We skipped the more scenic, but also more hilly and time-consuming, King’s Highway to hightail it on the desert freeway back north. After a quick stop at Mount Nebo – where Moses was reputed to behold the Promised Land that he could not enter – and the well-preserved and restored Byzantine mosaics in the Moses Memorial, our skillful driver, Akram, barreled down the hill to catch the last tour of Bethany Beyond the Jordan. Officially recognized as the Baptism Site of Jesus in the Jordan River (John 1:24-28), the location is also designated on the famous Holy Land mosaic map of Madaba, as it was a pilgrimage site for early Christians.

Monks and hermits lived here during the Byzantine period and the archaeological remains of early churches can be seen. Several new and modern churches have been and will be built in the area.

The board of trustees of the Baptism Site Commission donated the specific pieces of lands where the new churches are being built. These were given to each denomination as a waqf’ land which cannot be sold or used for another purpose and the proceedings of which must be used for charitable purposes.

There will be twelve new churches in all, with some of them having guest houses, and residence for monks/priests. The Catholic Church will be the largest church complex in the Middle East [30,000 sqm]. The churches are designed in traditional architectural form, which clearly reflects the heritage of each particular denomination.

 St John's Church in Bethany, Jordan
The newly built Greek Orthodox Church of John the Baptist.

Arriving in Amman

Akram kindly extended his long last day with us to give us a quick tour of the highlights of Amman, the bustling capital city of this historic country – mostly after dark no less! Though closed for the day, we visited the Citadel and Roman Theatre before heading to the financial district and upscale suburbs so we could get a feel for this diverse city. We were duly impressed by both the old and new parts of the city.

The old city center of Amman is surrounded by hills full of residential buildings.

Though we would have enjoyed one more day to really see Amman, and of course, we are always up for longer hikes in beautiful spots, our 4 day tour of Jordan was actually just about right. We’re happy to have made it to this little jewel of a nation, where you can pack in many very diverse experiences in a relatively short time period if you put your mind to it .. and have a great guide! Thanks to Akram, and kimkim for a super trip!

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