A Fast-Paced Journey Around Jordan – Part 1

Most of us recognize the iconic architecture of Petra with its buildings carved into stone rock walls. Remember Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade? (Many other films were shot here including Aladdin, The Mummy Returns, Queen of the Desert, to name a few.)

Aside from that, how much do we actually know about this ancient city? Or the country of Jordan? For us, the answer was not enough. And since we would be (relatively) close by for our Egypt/Morocco trip, we made a whirlwind 4-day trip to learn and see as much as we could in that short time.

Map of our destinations around Jordan

Jordan Facts

Jordan is about the same size as Ohio with about 15% less population: Jordan has 10 million people; Ohio 11.5 million. Over 3 million of the population are non-Jordanians: over a million Egyptians working in the fields, 1/2 million refugees from Iraq and Syria each among them.

Our tour got off to a great start when we met our guide Akram Halabi. We booked our tour through kimkim, and specifically requested Akram due to the numerous glowing reviews about him. Turns out, he’s the manager of the guides, and normally doesn’t guide himself anymore, but had made an exception since we specifically requested him. We hope he’s as happy as we are that he did … we couldn’t have found a more professional, friendly, accommodating and open guide, whose passion for his country was contagious. We were so fortunate to benefit from his knowledge, advice, insights and graciousness. We’re chagrined that we didn’t get a good picture with Akram; we may need to return to Jordan just to rectify this oversight!

According to Akram, Jordan is the ‘Switzerland’ of the Middle East, having stayed relatively neutral in a neighborhood known for conflict. He is very proud of his capital city of Amman (nearly 3 million people in the greater Amman area), deeming it much more European and modern than Cairo for instance. Having now been to Cairo, we have to agree, at least given the parts of Cairo we saw. Jordan is a parliamentary monarchy, with the king as head of state, a prime minister and 2 houses of parliament: upper and lower.

Jordan’s economic resource base centers on mining, minerals and manufacturing, and tourism. Lacking coal reserves, hydroelectric power, large tracts of forest or commercially viable oil deposits, Jordan relies on natural gas for 93% of its domestic energy needs. Jordan used to depend on Iraq for oil until the American-led 2003 invasion of Iraq, which led to some anti-American sentiment, but we certainly did not experience that on our trip; everyone was extremely welcoming.

Queen Noor: Dallas Connection

As an aside, the other thing you may know about Jordan is that King Hussein of Jordan married an American, Lisa Halaby – Queen Noor – in 1978. What you might not know is that Queen Noor’s father, an American named Najeeb Halaby, was born in Dallas, where his father – a Syrian Christian immigrant – had opened a Halaby Galleries, a rug boutique and interior-decorating shop, at Neiman Marcus in Dallas.

Queen Noor is very highly respected in Jordan for her philanthropic work including advocacy for children, promoting peace and the removal of land mines, protecting the environment from climate change and advocating for cross-cultural understanding. 

First Stop: Jerash

Thanks to Akram’s expert advice, we avoided Amman’s gnarly traffic, and instead traveled back in time (if only briefly) with a trip to Jerash, one of the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy. ‘Ruins’ is a bit deceiving: it may not look the way it did 2,000 years ago, but Jerash is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world.

The city was originally founded by the Greeks under Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC, but was fully developed by the Romans starting about 300 years later. Jerash was hugely enriched as a trading center for the Romans, with goods coming to/from Europe to the northwest. (Petra, which we visited later, operated as the trading center for goods coming to/from the Roman Empire in Arabia, Asia and Africa).

Let’s See The Dead Sea

Continuing onward to the Dead Sea, we stayed the night at the gorgeous and luscious Kempinski Ishtar. The Dead Sea is not the saltiest body of water on earth, nor is it the largest salt water lake, but its shores and surface, at 430 meters (1,412 feet) below sea level, are Earth’s lowest elevation on land.

  Located at an altitude of 1,412 ft below sea level, the shores of the Dead Sea are the lowest point on Earth. The water is 34% salt — almost 10 times saltier than the ocean — and one of the world’s saltiest bodies of water. It is this hypersalinity that causes people float, which has attracted visitors for thousands of years.

The Dead Sea was one of the world’s first health resorts back in the first century B.C.

Kerak Castle

Traveling south down the ancient King’s Highway (mentioned in the Old Testament) led us to the hilltop city of Kerak, home of Jordan’s largest crusader castle, the aptly-named Kerak Castle. The route of the King’s Highway in Jordan is over 5,000 years old and was used as a trading route in ancient times. It is one of the longest continuously used communication/trade routes in the world.

 Built in 1142 by the King of Jerusalem, Kerak Castle was able to control bedouin herders as well as the trade routes from Damascus to Egypt and Mecca. More recently, it had a large role in the 2005 film Kingdom of Heaven.
View over the hilltop city of Kerak.

Dana Nature/Biosphere Reserve

Variety is the spice of life, so in addition to the cities, castles, ruins and temples we made a stop at Dana Nature Reserve. Here we enjoyed a too-brief hike and lunch while reveling in the expansive views of the Great Rift Valley in the distance.

=> VIDEO of Shauna and Mohamed climbing the sandstone hill.

Next up: Jordan Part 2: Petra and Wadi Rum

1 thought on “A Fast-Paced Journey Around Jordan – Part 1”

Leave a Comment